In this video, we show you how to build an outdoor dining table out of reclaimed pallet wood. The best part about this project was that the wood was all free! The only items I had to purchase were more deck screws and the spar urethane I’ll be using for the finish.
Tools used in this project:
(Note: most of the links below are Amazon affiliate links which help support Crafted)
- Dewalt 20V Max Impact Driver
- Dewalt 20V Max Reciprocating Saw
- Ryobi Miter Saw
- FastCap Best Fence 3 Miter Saw Stand
- FastCap Sawhood Pro
- Black & Decker Circular Saw (Vintage)
- Dewalt Random Orbit Sander
- Titebond III Wood Glue
Pallet Table Cut List:
- 2×4, 72″ (x3)
- 2×4, 37″ (x2)
- 2×4, 16 ¼” (x2)
- 2×4, 35 ¼” (x2 in video, ideally x4)
- 2×4, 31″ (x8)
- ½” thick pallet slats, 31″ with 45 degree miters on each end in parallel (x~30 depending on size of pallet slats)
To download the SketchUp file of the table frame, click here. This is my first SketchUp file, so please let me know if anything is missing or incorrect.
Pallet Table Build Summary:
My inspiration for this project was this pallet that I received as part of the shipping container for the FastCap Best Fence Pro 3 miter saw stand that you can see in the background of this shot. The pallet ended up being nearly the perfect size for an outdoor table at 72 x 32 inches?. The final table should seat 6 people comfortably.
The first step in this project was disassembling four pallets, including the large pallet that would make up the frame of the table. As it was, the large pallet didn’t have enough structural integrity to serve as the table top. I also wanted to have the slats on the top of the table arranged in a chevron pattern, which meant I had to remove the existing slats anyway.
To remove the slats, I used my Dewalt 20V Max Cordless Reciprocating Saw with a 12 inch long Milwaukee The Axe blade. The reciprocating saw works with my other Dewalt cordless hammer drill and impact driver batteries, and it made quick work disassembling the pallets. The Milwaukee Axe blade is designed for wood with nails, so it was perfect for this job. I will add links to the saw and the blades in the description below.
One of the longer 2×4 segments from the large pallet had some cracks at both ends that needed to be repaired before moving forward. I added Titebond 3, spread the board a few times to distribute the glue, and added more glue on the other side. I clamped the two pieces together and let it dry. Off camera, I also added three 2 ½ inch deck screws vertically through the ends of the 2×4 to help secure them.
Once the pallets were disassembled, I began cutting the slats to rough length, which ended up being 31 inches long point to long point including the 45 degree miter. I went ahead and cut 45 degree miters on each end in parallel, mainly because I didn’t want to reset the angle of the miter saw for each cut just to cut off the excess from each slat. One thing to note is that pallet slats have tons of nails, so pay attention to where you’re cutting. You want to cut a bit off from each end of the slats, as the ends are usually where the nails and cracks are concentrated.
The FastCap Best Fence Pro 3 miter saw stand make this task super easy. I used the built in stop block on each cut, and it was very efficient to cut the slats to size. The FastCap Sawhood Pro was also extremely helpful in keeping the dust from the miter saw contained into one area. We will have a full review of both the Best Fence and Sawhood Pro coming soon, so stay tuned for that.
While I was cutting the pallet slats to size, my wife gave them a quick sanding with 120 grit paper using my random orbital sander. I didn’t want to remove too much of the rough look of the slats, I just wanted to avoid splinters becoming an issue in the final piece. She also removed any nails that were protruding.
For the legs, I kept it very simple, cutting scrap 2x4s down to 30” segments and gluing and screwing them together to form 4×4 legs. The legs ended up being extremely sturdy and worked out perfectly for the build.
The last piece that needed to be cut was another 2×4 which would complete the outer frame of the table top. These two pieces were cut to 37 inches, making the total dimensions of the final table top roughly 74 x 37 inches.
Once the last piece was cut, I began assembling the frame. I used two 2 ½ inch deck screws per corner, trying to keep the frame as square as possible. A few of the pieces were slightly warped, but I managed to get it close. I attached the center support in the same way as the corners, with two 2 ½ inch deck screws at each end.
Continue reading on the next page.