This DIY guitar stand woodworking project is a great beginner build. You only need a few simple tools, a jigsaw and a drill, to build this DIY guitar stand. The best part about building your own stand is that you can customize the stand to fit electric guitars, acoustic guitars, banjos, ukuleles, violins, and other stringed instruments. Let's get started!

Note: Links below are Amazon affiliate links

Tools Used On DIY Guitar Stand Project:

• Dewalt 20V Max Impact Driver

• SawStop PCS 1.75-HP Professional Cabinet Saw

• Laguna 14|12 Bandsaw

• Shapeoko XL CNC

DIY Guitar Stand Materials:

• 1 x 12, roughly 2 feet long

• (Optional) ArtResin epoxy

• Brass hinge

• Felt strips

• Leather cord

• Finish of your choice (I used Waterlox)

DIY Guitar Stand Build Process:

Step 1 : Gather Materials & Tools

I designed this DIY guitar stand so it could be cut from a standard 1x12 from any home center or lumber dealer. You’ll need a roughly 2 foot long piece to cut both halves. Another option would be to glue together two 1x6 pieces, if that’s something you already have. I decided to use some Walnut scraps, so I glued them into panels and then cut them to size.

(Optional) Engrave Quote Onto Guitar Stand Using CNC Router

I decided to add a little extra flair with my CNC router. This is a completely optional step, but I thought it would be a fun addition to the stand. I used a 45 degree V-Bit to engrave one of my favorite quotes onto the stand.

Step 2 : Attach Template Using Spray Adhesive

With the quote engraved, next I needed to cut out the shape of one side of the DIY guitar stand. I laid out the placement of the stand on the pieces using my printed template. This template is available for free, click the button below to download the template.

Download Free Template!

I attached the template to the wood with spray adhesive. One tip here: if you apply spray adhesive to both surfaces and allow them to dry for a few minutes, you will be able to remove the template much easier than if you stuck the surfaces together while the adhesive was still wet.

Step 3 : Cut Shape Using Bandsaw / Jigsaw & Drill Relief Hole For Router Bit

I cut out the shape on the bandsaw, but you could definitely use a jigsaw here if you don’t have a bandsaw. The key here is to take it slow and really try to follow the line. This piece will become the template for the other side, and the better job you do on this step, the better the stand will turn out.

After cutting the shape, I drilled a hole using an 1 ½” Forstner bit. This hole is to allow the router bit used in a following step to get into the sharp corner.

Step 4 : Refine Guitar Stand Shape Using Oscillating Belt Sander

With the piece cut, I continued to shape the stand using my oscillating belt sander. If you don’t have one of these, you could use files and sandpaper to refine the shape.

Step 5 : Rough Cut Other Half of Stand & Flush Trim Using The Router

Once it was sanded to its final shape, I traced it onto the other half of the DIY guitar stand and rough cut it at the bandsaw. On this half, I made sure to stay clear of the line so that I could use a flush trim router bit in the next step to flush everything up.

Next, I attached the two halves using double sided tape and then flushed them up using a flush trim bit on the router table. If you don’t have a router, you could cut both halves to their final size, tape them together, and then use files and sandpaper to get them to be identical.

I also always forget to pay attention to grain direction when using the router table, and I unfortunately got some pretty significant tearout because of it. I was able to sand away these parts, but just pay attention to your grain direction so you can avoid this altogether.

(Optional) Fill Letters With Epoxy Resin

Next, I decided to fill the letters with epoxy, just to give them a little extra pop. I used a product called ArtResin, and I would highly recommend it for this type of application. It has no VOCs, unlike a lot of epoxies I’ve used, so I could pour it on inside.

I mixed way too much epoxy, but I’ll figure that out with more experience. I added a little black dye, mixed it for three minutes, then poured it on. ArtResin is a fairly thin epoxy and is self leveling, so it filled the letters nicely. I came back with a propane torch and popped any bubbles that had formed in the epoxy, and I did this every 5 minutes for the first 20 minutes and I ended up with a bubble-free pour.

I let the epoxy cure for about 36 hours, then tried to use my planer to remove the excess epoxy. I ended up taking too deep of a pass and removed some of the depth of the lettering, which was really frustrating after all that work. If I were to do this again, I’d use the planer to remove the bulk of the epoxy then use a card scraper to flush everything up.

Step 6 : Install Hinge, Drill Holes For Cord & Roundover Edges

Next, I installed the hinge which connects the two halves of the stand. These brass screws have a tendency to strip out, so I used some paste wax to help keep them from stripping.

I also drilled a hole for the leather cord which will set the width of between the two halves of the stand. I’ll talk about this more later.

Next, I rounded over the edges using an ⅛” roundover bit, sanded the pieces up to 220 grit, and then it was time to apply finish.

Step 7 : Apply Finish

I used Waterlox again on this project, as you might have seen in my last few builds. Waterlox is the sponsor on this video and, as I’ve said before, I absolutely love it on Walnut. It’s super simple to apply, I just use a foam brush and brush it on evenly. If you’d like to learn more about Waterlox, click here.

Step 8 : Install Felt Bumpers

Once the finish dried, I reinstalled the hinge and then added the felt bumpers to the areas where the guitar will touch the stand. They were perfect for this, since they’re ½” wide and three inches long. They’re just peel and stick, and the brown color blends in nicely with the Walnut.

You most likely do not want to use rubber bumpers for this, as some rubbers can react badly with nitrocellulose finishes on some guitars.

Step 9 : Set Width Using Cord

Next, I threaded the leather strap through the holes on each side of the stand, tied a knot on one end, and then adjusted the width of the stand to fit my guitar. You can adjust the width of the stand to fit your particular instrument. I designed the depth of the stand to hold a dreadnaught-sized acoustic guitar, but it also works with electric guitars, banjos, and most likely other instruments of a similar size. If you do want to build this for a ukulele, you could scale down the template and make a smaller stand.

Once the width is set, I cut off the excess cord and the stand was finished!